Speed Climbing Information

Speed Climbing will be a stand alone medal event at the Paris 2024 Olympic Games. CEC is committed to building a unique Speed Program to identify and support athletes in this exciting discipline.

This page contains references from both National and International historical data, plus some performance projections towards Paris 2024 and beyond. Additional information on training and development opportunities will be added over time. The current High Performance Program for Speed is detailed HERE.

 

SPEED RECORDS

Current World Records 

Female World Record:
6.53s – Aleksandra Miroslaw (POL)
Established – IFSC WorldCup, Salt Lake City, USA, May 27/ 2022

Male World Record:
5.00s – Katibin Kiromal (INA)
Established – IFSC World Cup, Chamonix, FRA, July 7/ 2022

Current Canadian Records

Female Canadian Record:

7.99s – Alannah Yip
Established – Olympic Games,Tokyo, Japan, August 6/ 2021

 

 

Male Canadian Record:

5.69s – Michael Finn-Henry
Established – IFSC World Cup, Chamonix, FRA, July 7/ 2022

 

 

CANADA Record Homologation Process

To be considered a Canadian Record, the following minimum conditions must be met:

  1. The time must be accomplished in one of the following events:
    1. Olympic or Pan American Games
    2. IFSC sanctioned competition (Senior or Youth)
    3. Continental sanctioned competition (Pan Am, NACS etc)
    4. CEC Sanctioned event (High Performance Competition, National Championship, Regional Championship) or equivalent (i.e., USAC Nationals)
    5. Select World and Master Events (World Games, Beach Games etc)
  2. Athlete must be a Canadian Citizen
  3. Speed wall on which the competition is taking place must have been approved by an appointed CEC, National or International Federation representative using the following conditions:
    1. Speed Wall is built to IFSC standard (does not need to be homologated)
    2. Using IFSC certified (stamped) Speed Holds (training holds are not permitted)
    3. Using an approved electronic timing device
    4. For more information on the CEC approval process, please contact hpd@climbingcanada.ca 

 

TIME REFERENCES

The table below provides several tangible references for age and gender categories. They are intended to help Athletes, Coaches and PTSOs to measure athlete development and to use as reference in creating training and competition objectives. **These are not intended to be used as the only benchmark in athlete development assessments. Athlete development is not always linear and several other factors must be considered.

IFSC References

2022 Senior and Youth World Championships

Category

Minimum Time 

Round of 16 WCH

Fastest Time

WCH

WC Season Best World Record
Senior Female 8.14 n/a 6.53 6.53
Senior Male 5.83 n/a 5.00 5.00
Category

Minimum Time

Round of 16 YWCH

Fastest Time

YWCH

Youth B Female 10.68 8.38

n/a

Youth B Male 7.60 6.17
Youth A Female 9.96 7.50
Youth A Male 6.69 5.37
Junior Female 11.23 7.53
Junior Male 6.87 5.58

 

CEC References

2022 Season

Category *HPP Minimum Performance Time **Speed Nationals Recommended Minimum Time
Senior Female 9.14 9.65
Senior Male 6.83 7.84
Category *HPP Minimum Performance Time **Speed Nationals Recommended Minimum Time
Youth B Female

n/a 

for 

youth categories

13.23
Youth B Male 9.60
Youth A Female 12.68
Youth A Male 8.87
Junior Female 11.96
Junior Male 8.69

 

*This is the minimum time required IN ADDITION to meeting all other High Performance Program selection criteria published HERE. This time must be achieved in an official competition using an electronic timing device.

**This is the recommended minimum time to be competitive at Nationals.

Minimum Performance Times – 2023 YWC Selections

The table below outlines the minimum times required in addition to finishing top 3 in the category. These times may be achieved at any time up until July 25th/ 2023. Minimum Performance Times must be verified via published result table or via video submission.

YWC minimum performance times are based on historical data from past YWCs plus an additional time buffer. In 2023 we will use times required to finish top 10 in qualifying at Dallas 2022 YWC. These times are more consistent across categories than top 16. The buffer in creating the minimum times will be increased t accommodate for this faster benchmark.

Youth B: Dallas YWC Benchmark + 2.00s

Youth A: Dallas YWC Benchmark + 1.25s

Junior: Dallas YWC Benchmark + 0.75s

Minimum Times to Top 10 in Qualifying Youth B Female Youth B Male Youth A Female Youth A Male Junior Female Junior Male
2022 YWC – Dallas 9.79 7.27 9.34 6.30 9.55 6.47
2023 Minimum Performance Times – YWC Team Selection
Youth B Female Youth B Male Youth A Female Youth A Male Junior Female Junior Male
11.79 9.27 10.59 7.55 10.30 7.22

Olympic Projection References

In the lead up to Paris 2024, where Speed will be a standalone discipline, CEC wishes to provide a guideline for athletes focusing on speed training. The below times are there as a suggestion of what athletes should be tracking toward. In no way should this be construed as qualification times, but rather performance indicators.

MEN Time Speed Nationals 2022 Time Aug 2022 Time Aug 2023 Time Aug 2024 Podium at OG
Paris 2024 6.10 5.90 5.80 5.70 5.40
LA 2028 8.00 6.80 6.40 6.00 5.30
Brisbane 2032 10.00 8.00 7.50 7.00 5.10

 

WOMEN Time Speed Nationals 2022 Time Aug 2022 Time Aug 2023 Time Aug 2024 Podium at OG
Paris 2024 8.10 7.80 7.50 7.20 6.90
LA 2028 10.00 8.70 8.10 7.80 6.60
Brisbane 2032 12.00 11.70 11.10 9.80 6.50

 

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Looking for photos of Boulder Nationals? Check out this drive folder from @flashfocused and @jocelynsahli Help yourself to any photo and remember to tag the appropriate photo credit!

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Vous cherchez des photos des Nationaux de bloc? Consultez ce dossier de @flashfocused et @jocelynsahli Servez-vous et n'oubliez pas de taguer le crédit photo approprié !

Looking for photos of Boulder Nationals? Check out this drive folder from @flashfocused and @jocelynsahli Help yourself to any photo and remember to tag the appropriate photo credit!

Link in bio / Lien en bio

Vous cherchez des photos des Nationaux de bloc? Consultez ce dossier de @flashfocused et @jocelynsahli Servez-vous et n'oubliez pas de taguer le crédit photo approprié !
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Massive thanks to the @boulderzclimbingcentre team for hosting Boulder Nationals! We couldn't do it without our dedicated gym partners and they have gone above and beyond to ensure athletes, staff and volunteers have a great experience. Thank you!

Un grand merci à l'équipe de @boulderzclimbingcentre pour avoir accueilli les championnats nationaux de Bloc ! Nous ne pourrions pas le faire sans nos partenaires de gym dévoués et ils sont allés au-delà pour s'assurer que les athlètes, le personnel et les bénévoles vivent une expérience formidable. Merci!

Massive thanks to the @boulderzclimbingcentre team for hosting Boulder Nationals! We couldn't do it without our dedicated gym partners and they have gone above and beyond to ensure athletes, staff and volunteers have a great experience. Thank you!

Un grand merci à l'équipe de @boulderzclimbingcentre pour avoir accueilli les championnats nationaux de Bloc ! Nous ne pourrions pas le faire sans nos partenaires de gym dévoués et ils sont allés au-delà pour s'assurer que les athlètes, le personnel et les bénévoles vivent une expérience formidable. Merci!
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